Thursday, November 17, 2011

Lucky dog and other fearless creatures

No picture today and , again I need to apologize for missing a week. Sometimes i feel i have nothing to say and don't want to just ramble. I don't know why not, i do it so often!
I've been wanting a bicycle but it hasn't been in the budget. Living is cheap here but we really have to watch what we spend in order to make it through the month. Good things come to those who wait though right? Well, sometimes ( sometimes they just miss out all together...). I was given a fabulous beach cruiser bike in almost new condition! John lowered the seat to fit my munchkin like legs and i was in business. He bought me a basket ( around $4.00) and I was off and running. Speaking of running, Lucky LOVES to go with me. He looks like a little trotter running alongside with his tongue flapping merrily in the breeze. He is not too street savvy so i was concerned about his response when a car approached but hes such a smart boy- i snapped my fingers to the right of the bike and he cruised right into position. Each day we have ridden a bit further. today we went to the other end of the village and back stopping at the beach where i discovered to my dismay there isn't sand but mud. i don't know what is going on in the gulf but it all landed here. he sunk up to his chest at one point but was undettered from bird chasing. Of course he had to have a bath when we got home after which I of course had to have a bath...
We were hanging out after. i on the stool at the breakfast bar, he laying by the door, then he decided he wanted out. I watched him stand with his nose pressed to the screen for a minute then he pushed..tentatively. Stopped. Pushed again then sort of bumped it with his nose. it opened!. he was surprised and unsure of his next move. he sat there a minute then pushed it again to see if he'd get the same result. it would open a few inches then come back to its original position ( there is no spring). Now standing, he carefully bumped it a third time and stuck his nose in it. The door hit it gently upon its return. He calculated this didn't hurt and there didn't appear to be a great risk. I could see him pondering for a moment then...bump, push, out! Now, i could have at any point just gotten up and opened the door for him saying "here, let me help you" but he wouldn't have learned a valuable lesson- he is capable of doing it himself. It made me think about how many people are enabled by people who are trying to be helpful but are really hindering peoples growth. I feel this is a universal idea whether its a parent doing for a child what they could do for themselves, people who are learning how to live on their own, entire countries of people who have become dependant upon aid ( I've recently been reading about what a crock most aid is...). It's like that old saying ( and i'm paraphrasing ) about give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he'll never go hungry ( well, as long as there are still fish to be caught!). Just like Lucky bumped his nose, people need to learn they can over come a little bump on the road to learning something. the other thing I saw was that he overcame his fear. It was scary to push that door open and walk out. He wasn't sure what would happen once he got past the point he was familiar with. it was an unknown but he took the risk and reaped the reward- he can now let himself out. He has more freedom. So many of us get stuck, held immobilized by the fear of " but what if...?"
Later, we are going to ride up to the manglar and see if we can catch a glimpse of one of the local crocodiles basking on his sunny little knoll. " but what if he comes after you?"...what if he does...what if he chases us down the road?! What if he's not there at all? We won't know if we don't go look. I encourage you all to push those doors open and walk out- even if you get a little bump on the nose.

Thursday, November 3, 2011

drive from Santa Clara to Dzidzantun

OK actually I lied...this isnt the road to Dzidzantun, this is passed there in Cansahcab, the next town.






This was in Dzidzantun. I snapped this as we were getting gas





This guy is sooo typical. Rubber boots, maybe a rifle slung across his shoulders and a load of sticks on the back of his bike. This was on the road from SC to Dzidzantun.







This beautiful shot is the santa Clara basurero- dump. Where we first saw our dog. As a pup, his litter was dropped off here to fight the vultures for scraps.

so there is a whole other blog- 2 this week. the other one is SC pictures...till next time, thanks for taking this journey with me.








Santa Clara

I try to be a woman of my word so, as promised, i am posting a few pictures of our village. I took several photos but can only post 5 at a time so, here is a tiny sampling. Guess i'll just have to show you a few more from time to time.
So- as we were leaving our house today to come into Merida, I was poised to shoot. First, as you approach the village ( we live on the outer edge..as if the village isn't remote enough, we live outside of it) from the west, I don't know if you can make it out or not but there is a chapel. One wall is open- always. You look in and see the pews, the virgin, you know, churchy stuff. Its the structure with the red roof in front of the red and white cell phone tower. you also see our trusty Ford Ranger that has been and continues to be one of the best vehicles I've ever owned. Just passed that yellow sign, you turn right to head into Dzidzantun. If you continued forward, you would go to Dzilam de Bravo and the end of the road.
A left hand turn at the church, and you pass this cute little place. It, like most of the places in Santa Clara, is a vacation home. People come down for Semana Santa (2 weeks in April- like their spring break) and the entire month of August.



Just passed the little green house is the beach. Lots of fisherman come in and out of this spot. Some enterprising person installed a beer store just to the left of this concrete building. And to the right of these boats, is Quincy's house. He and his wife have been working on their mega structure for 3 years- for the two of them. It is enormous. She is a head hunter and works out of her home online. They are...how shall i say it...know to tip a few. a few buckets full!




Oh look! Its my navigator on this tour...we are3 driving along the beach. this cute little house on the left was built by a gringo realtor and was sold to gringos. it was one of the first to bring in the big bucks which sort of set a new precident (sp?) for selling prices here.






Oh I DID include a picture of the mega structure....this really does not display the grandeur of this place. It towers over everything else around. Well, except for another home to the left of ours on the beach. it was the first giant gringo house built in the village. I will be staying in it, as a matter of fact, for a month as the woman who lives there is having hip surgery and will need help. She's a nice woman. Lives in the big house alone.....



Well, I must say, these pictures really don't show you a darn thing. im going to have to do a series of these. I am in fact going to post a drive to Dzidzantun right after this...a bonus post! The snowbirds are starting their migration. Carol and AJ from Texas via Dubai, Singapore and points unknown, will be down in 2 weeks, Peggy and Tom from Ontario and Newfounland will be down in 3 weeks, Rosealia and Wayne will be down next week from Woodstock, NY just to name a few. Its so odd, when they all left in May I thought Id get bored or lonely I find that i greatly enjoy my solitude. Our routine of playing gin, yard work, chasing the dog around the yard, sweeping sand out of the house, tending to the pool, reading and taking siesta pretty much fills our time. Now that we've been here over a year, i have reference points-when the flamingos come and go, when the window birds start banging on the glass and when they go, when the leaves fall off one bush in the front and when the die hards remain behind as the rest flee. We have come to the conclusion that those of us who have chosen to move down here are all a bit....odd? different? weird? eccentric? offbeat? dropouts?alcoholics? crazy?anti-establishment? all of the above? but those of us who stay here for the duration, through the heat of a Mexican summer, the crowds that swarm the beach in August, the hurricane season...are we even crazier? maybe...maybe crazy like a fox ( a drunken, one eyed, addled, lunatic fox!!)








Sunday, October 30, 2011

horrific stench and coconut flan

No pictures today...i was thinking that I have never actually shown you any pictures of Santa Clara itself so my goal is to do that Thursday when I post the new blog. Since I didnt post one last Thur., that makes this the new old blog i guess....yes, i'm in a weird space today. Yesterday was dark, dreary, very windy and rainy. Today has been more of the same minus the wind. It was actually cool enough for me to put on socks around the house.
Last week we paid some guys to come cut down all the coconuts. There were huge clusters of them in some of the trees that turned watering and yardwork into some kind of adrenaline junkie extreme sport....(commentator comes on speaking in hushed tone)..."she's going for the philadendron under the tall palm....OH! Thats gotta hurt..oh..is she Ok? Is she moving? There's a dog licking her face ..the paramedics have arrived but they are evidently having a hard time moving the dog. He seems to think it's some sort of game...". Anyway, we had them cut down. When there was a threat of Rina arriving in our neighborhood, we patted ourselves on the back for the foresight to remove potential missiles from our parimeter but for lack of hurricane force winds, they remain laying in the front yard in a heap...or pile...mound? stack? we thought we had a guy coming to buy them but he never showed up. I even pulled some out into the drive with a sign "se vende coco's"on Sunday for the weekenders...no luck.
Late this morning after breakfast and fiddling about, we called our friend Merritt who lives down the road in Dzilam de Bravo ( FYI- the pirate Jean LaFitte is actually buried there). He has been ill- Merritt, not Jean- and was finally up for visitors. I wont go into his afflictions but i will tell you is he was recently hospitalized for 10 days, had a major operation that took 6 hours, ICU for two days and the bill was $25,000.00 What do you think that would have run in the states!! He has international ins. so most of it will be covered. Dzilam de Bravo is about 10 miles down the coast. it is literally the end of the road. Beyond it is a wildlife refuge (one of the places the flamingos go for the winter...not much of a migration!)As we approached Dzilam the stench was overpowering." What is that?!" we both scrinched up our faces and rolled up the windows as fast as we could. It smelled like everyones sewage was in some large open community pool. I think what it actually was is a lot of rotting seaweed. the wind has been blowing in hard from the north which means everything in the gulf has been 'flushed' south to this town. While we were there, we also visited a friend named Linda whose house is awash with the beautiful things she has painted all over her walls and the fabulous tile mosaics she has created outside. She is originally from canada and has lived here for over 15 years. She has no car and lives on $250.00 a month. She takes in lots of stray cats and dogs so its a real menagerie. I brought her some books and she made tea and broke out a treasured box of cookies from Wal-Mart. She asked us if we had remembered to turn our clocks back (daylight savings comes early here). " oh! thats right! Folks at the meeting Thur. told us but we forgot." we promptly switched our timepieces... After we drank, ate and caught up on all the latest, we headed for home, thankful to leave the smell of Dzilam behind us. On the way we passed flocks of egrets hanging out with flamingos. A heron or two, drove passed 'mino de oro' an abandoned salt hacienda. as we approached the edge of santa Clara, we saw the "cocos' man. He drives a beat up white VW van with a load speaker mounted to the top. He drives up and down blaring things about his various coco treats. We stopped and talked to him about our pile-o-cocos in the yard and a couple hours later, there he was. He gave us a complimentary slice of DELICIOUS coconut flan...omg to die for! His wife makes it. Mmmmm...if I knew how to make that i'd weigh 300 lbs...after he and john loaded up all the nuts and he paid us (about $18.00) john came in and we played a hand of gin..an afternoon ritual. when we finished, we looked outside-'its dark! Its a quarter to 6 and its dark!"..'the time change....." so that explains my weird space. it's gloomy, drizzly and dark at 5:30..it feels like portland! Makes me a bit melancholy ( Lynda, you will be happy to know I used the dictionary to look that up...)so, there you have it. Just split a piece of flan with john and we'll watch an episode of Mad Men we checked out at the library in merida. Pretty good day even if it did stink and get dark by 6......

Friday, October 21, 2011

Tiny bit

So this will be the shortest blog ever....sorry, I know I've been remiss...I have been without internet for a while now. I used up my allotted megabytes early sending and receiving photos. Oops..won't do that again...
So lets see...we successfully renewed our FM 2's ( resident status certification) and it was a very simple, painfree process (once we got new bank cards. I did tell you about John leaving the bank card at the ATM right?). Luckily, our friend Lynda came to visit and brought all of our mail, tea, picture frames, books...yes, those who come to visit know they have to lug not only their things but a list of wants and needs for us...our friends love us ( good thing...). John had a wonderful visit with his family in Minnesota. A good time was had by all and Lucky kept me company while he was away and before Lyndas arrival ( dont tell him but hes getting fixed tomorrow,... Lucky that is, not John!)....so, Im very sorry to cut this off all ready but I have to run. I need to go set up my meeting (where there will be 3 in attendance,=...) pack up, stop at walmart for milk then get home. The guys came and cut down the coconuts the other day so a storm wouldnt blow one through a window, now they are in a pile in front of the house. A guy is supposed to come buy them at one so...gotta run!

Saturday, October 1, 2011

keep the doors wide open

I find I am in a reflective time- the period between Sept 25th, when we left portland , the two weeks we spent on the road and our arrival here in southern Mexico on Oct 10th. It was so much more then a trip. It was the culmination of a five year plan, much preparation and psychic re-arranging. After lots of purging of possessions, many, many goodbyes and enormous financial changes we were ready both physically and mentally. There was a brief moment as we hit the freeway on ramp my head screamed " what are you doing?!!" but it blew out the window and i settled in for an adventure.
I keep picturing the seemingly endless miles of nothing. Days of scenery that never changed. I was pondering that today while i was in my back yard hacking palm fronds with a machete. It struck me how life is like that sometimes. I clearly remember being so sad that my life seemed like a bad movie being played over and over, endlessly looping back on itself. Not only did the scenery never change, i had no hope that it ever would until it ended. The most horrifying thought was that it wouldn't end for a long time.
Luckily, i experienced some major life changes including the epiphony that i had some say in how my life went. Not only could i make choices, i didn't have to be a victim of the outcome. I also learned if i made a choice that wasnt good...i could change my mind! I acquired two vitally important tools- self esteem and perspective. I also developed a point of view that was bigger than myself. I realized i truly am a part of a much larger picture and i can add to it in a positive way or big a bug on the worlds windshield.
The freedom that i have in my life today, the freedom to enjoy my life today, is amazing. That trip down with it's endlessly empty vistas was just part of the journey to get here. Eventually the view changed. We emerged from a vast nothingness to endless variety- acres and acres of sunflowers as far as the eye could see , vast jungles and rainforests where we expected gorillas to come crashing out. We saw roadside communities reminiscent of Mad Max where burning barrels spewed black smoke and greasy men weilded enormous tools trying to fix trucks that were new in the 50's . We passed over country that had been hit by a hurricane and slowly navigated washed out bridges, roads half erased by mudslides and relatively new freeways that were so full of axle breaking pot holes we thought they had been bombed.
Had we, at some point, just stopped, thinking 'its too ugly, I can't go on. I can't look at this anymore" we would have missed it and we never would have gotten to our destination. Sometimes, you end up on a road where there is nothing for as far as the eye can see, but thats OUR eye. Sometimes there is something a little further on, something we just can't see yet. We consult our map, ask directions and head on to our destination. Sometimes detours happen and what seemed like a big waste of time and gas, turns out to be one of your favorite parts of the trip. I don't think we are meant to know our entire path or why we go one way instead of another, our job is be present on the journey. Our journey brought us to a magical place with warm winds, tropical birds a new language. I have people that help me when i need it, i have keys to a couple of buildings in the city and two of my neighbors homes. I am trusted and cared about. I am here with a man I've been with for 32 years and we still like each other most of the time. Who knows where the path leads from here. It's my job, and my pleasure, to keep the doors open to possibilities and proceed with grace. Jackson Brown says " sometime between the time you arrive and the time you go, there may be a reason you were here but you'll never know". I don't need to know.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

a typical day

Every Thursday we head into Merida. It's about an hour and a half drive. We leave Santa Clara, go through our little sister town of Dzidzantun, then through the next village which is Cansahcab and from there we connect with a highway that takes us into the city. We do the same in reverse the next day when we come home. As we were passing through Cansahcab , we noticed they were getting set up for some sort of hootenanny. On the right side of the picture, you can see the "arena". This is made entirely of sticks with grass woven in for shade. This is a two story structure that will not only support the weight of a full capacity crowd , but keep a bull corralled while they have a lariet competition. this goes on for hours...long into the night. It's a major event lasting for days. This is a good thing considering it takes 3-4 days to build. Vendors will set up all around (this always happens near the square and often in the front yard of a church). You can also see one of the vendors in this photo. There was also a corn on the cob vendor and a "hot kakes" vendor. After dark, young people will be strolling around flirtatiously, old people will be seated, chatting it up with their neighbors. There will be the "burachos" hanging out on the dark fringes hoisting cervesas, recognizable in any language or skin color by their glassy eyes, red noses and generally dissheveled look. Early in the day you'll see vacarros riding healthy, beautiful horses in circles, practicing. It's all quite spectacular doings for whatever village happens to be hosting it. We leave the festivities behind and wind our way to Dzidzantun. Here we make a couple of stops. First at the vegetable market, a tienda about 10 ft. square, we buy a papaya, some bananas, potatoes, pepper, carrot, onion and some garlic powder ( i also get bouillion and beans here ), next stop, the bakery where we pick up a couple of cinnamon rolls and a small loaf similar to a french bread. Next stop- super Willy's where we pick up yogurt, corn flakes and oatmeal ( I recently learned that mildewed oats can make you very sick...these will not be kept in the cardboard again....).One more stop...a little tienda that makes tortillas fresh daily. the ladies- 3 of them- are all very sweet.
We stop for a handfull of warm, fresh tortillas and she gives us two very strange looking things and a half dozen or so freshly picked limes. She instructs us how to cut the fruit and adds that we should squeeze on some lime ( you put lime on EVERYTHING here...maybe if i'd have put some on the moldy oats i wouldn't have gotten sick...)Oh, I also got some cookies. they are sort of like a short bread but with a bit of ...lime! flavor....She gave us the fruit and limes as a gift because she wanted us to try it. So all of the things i have mentioned and that you see in the photo cost us about $12.00. It'll last us most of the week with the "integral" (wheat) bread , milk and meat we buy at Wal-Mart (sorry, it's true...) in Merida.




Little shop of horrors called and they want their fruit back! How weird is this? It is muy deliciouso! mmmmm......my friend Carol tells me it's called dragon fruit. who knew something that looked so odd would taste so good? And speaking of hidden surprises.....i pulled my bathing suit off the clothes line on the back porch later that day, and threw it into the chair to get undressed. As i did so, i thought..'what was that i just touched?"




Oh nothing, just a FROG! Yes indeedy do..in my bathing suit! Now how did that thing get into that while it was hangin' on the line? And why?! Thank god i didnt put it on.....One day theres a frog in the sink while i'm doing the dishes. on the airmattress in the pool and now in my bathing suit bottoms! I had better start checking under my pillow before i go to sleep....

So after all the driving, shopping, swimming, cooking, eating, frog catching,etc.,etc., it's finally time to play





with Lucky!!!!! oh yes, isn't he excited?! he's running around the front yard playing keep away with his smashed milk jug because, you know, i REALLY want it.....

After we're done, i'll go inside and either have a cup of tea or some Coca-lite and john and I will play a hand of gin, maybe read for a while, watch a DVD then go to bed. In the morning we'll wake up to another sunny day and see where it goes from there.....In 3 days it will be one year since we pulled out of our driveway and started this adventure. Do we have any regrets? Look at that last picture and tell me what you think......