Friday, April 6, 2012

Road trip to Cuzaman





I told you , when last we spoke, that my friend maggi was arriving. Well, the airport pickup went off without a hitch. Im such a local now.( Oh! There goes the line....) The day after her arrival we went, in air conditioned comfort courtesy of Marcies air conditioned land yacht, to Yoxcopuil, (and im probably not spelling that right..guess Im not totally a local yet), on the way to Uxmal. Yoxcopuil is a hacienda that is somewhat intact. It is still owned by the same family and some of the original pictures and furnishings remain. there was a great little guy there that showed us around then let us wander on our own. you can see how glorious it all was at one time but knowing some of the hacienda history ( the mayans were basically indentured servants..one step up from slaves) I couldnt help but ask the guy if the people were nice or "malo"-bad. ' malo" came the reply. We left there and went to another refurbished hacienda for a lovely lunch and finally made it to Uxmal for a brief visit as the temperatures were soaring by then. We returned to merida where we lazed about for a couple of days before heading out to casa de Kahnerts. The difference between merida and Santa Clara is like night and day but it took maggi no time to adjust to a very slow pace...like a crawl really...like a snails crawl...Reading, napping, hammock time, Yahtzee, gin...when we really got fired up we went to the beach. Pretty busy schedule. After a few days at that non stop pace, we hooked up with my friend peggy and took a road trip to the cenotes of Cuzama. Peggy drove since she has air conditioning, Maggi was navigator and i relaxed in the back. There was no direct route to this place and getting there involved passing through very small towns and villages with no real idea of where we were going other then a southern heading. The map we were using gave no description of the quality of the roads and at one point we found ourselves creeping over pavement that looked like a war had been fought in the area and it involved a lot of road bombing. Potholes like caverns awaited a false turn. peggys little car would have been sucked in head first. we seemed to leave civilization behind from time to time and i wondered about the gas situation but pushed it out of my mind.
As we rounded a bend, in the distance we saw some sort of wall or building. ' Whats that?" we all leaned forward ( as if that would help) and as we got closer we realized it was the remnants of a hacienda. here we were in the middle of nowhere....( sidenote- Im told there were over 900 hacindas here in the henequen heyday. It was sort of like the french revolution when the mayans revolted and overthrew the rich. many of the haciendas were damaged, others abandoned)
This particular building was the machine house. The huge wheels and cogs were still in place. I realized this as I looked up and saw that I was standing under some rotting timbers that were supporting..oh, a few tons of metal. Needless to say i moved. There was another building across the street and around the bend 4 or 5 more. There was also a tiny ramshackle structure where the caretakers currently live. In the end, the Mayans ended up the overseers of this hacienda...too bad they didnt get to live in grand style.
Wow, I must apologize....this posting is very problematic today....I selected several other photos that are somehow gone...i will have to post them seperately.....
From here we passed through several little villages, took a picture of a lovely little lady with gold earrings and a beautifully embroidered huipil (sp?-traditional dress)...
At last we reached Cuzaman. We stopped in a restaraunt with the tallest palapas roof Ive ever seen, had some wonderful fresh coconut and mango ice cream, then headed out to find our ride. They have taken the old rail cars that were used to transport the henequin and converted them to people movers. A little horse pulls you along the rails as you sway and bump along, you realize how huge the hacienda was. our time is running out so we tell our guy we can only visit one cenote. The cart stops, they detach our pony for a little break and we approach the mouth on the centote. Its an opening in the ground. A hole the size of a 57 chevy. God forbid you were drunk and staggering around in the dark because youd fall to your death. We clung to the handrail as we made our descent straight down concrete stairs. The temperature dropped dramatically as we headed into the darkness and once our eyes adjusted we saw a beautiful, blue, crystaline pool. The ceiling was adorned with stalagtites and swallows darted about.I was wishing id have brought my swimming suit as I watched a family diving in and swimming around.
I later found out that all three of the cenotes at Cuzama are underground and that the one we stopped at was , in fact, the least spectacular of the three. well, i know where im going back one day.....
So, things are heating up....gonna wrap this up for now. I hope i dont end up with doubles of the pics but if thats what happens so be it...till next time!

1 comment: